that, as summer approaches, they better get ready
to step up their game.”
The game’s also on at Abe Fisher, where Sichel’s
signature summer dish is a steak unlike anything you’ll
find at Ponderosa.

“In summer, I usually do a dry-aged 35-day ribeye steak for
two,” said Sichel, a Baltimore native now living in Elkins Park. “I like
an on-the-bone ribeye, usually about two pounds. With the fat from
the steak, some will render out and go into the flame. That gives the
steak a smokier flavor, which comes from the fat dripping.

“It’s a showstopper.”
But don’t be afraid to try it at home.

“This steak is easy to do at home,” Sichel said. “Make sure to pull
it out of the refrigerator about an hour before [grilling] so it can
temp up, and put lots of salt and pepper on there.

“The bigger the steak, the better opportunity to get a really nice
char and caramelization. It’s not as easy to overcook because you
have a larger window.”
The window is wide open when it comes to choices. The key is
not just throwing something on the grill, forgetting about it for a
while, then coming back to see something barely recognizable.

“If you’re going to grill, be sure to know what cut of meat you’re
working with,” O’Shea suggested. “A leaner cut of beef requires
some sort of marinade or brine before grilling, whereas a fattier
cut can go without.

“And be careful with fish and chicken. For fish, you need a
nice, hot grill. Not just the fire but the grates themselves, so that
the fish doesn’t stick. Chicken needs to be cooked through, so
don’t get it too hot. If you’re too hot, you’ll burn the outside before
Grilled Fish
cooking the center through.”
But suppose meat, chicken and fish aren’t your thing. Suppose
you’re a vegetarian.

Not to worry.

“In the summertime, it’s more about fresh local vegetables and
their accompaniments,” Solomonov said. “We use lots of sweet corn
and August tomatoes that are ripe for the picking.

“In general, we grill tons of vegetables — like eggplant, which is
always a favorite, and zucchini. Right over the charcoal. But few
things beat simply skewered fresh tomato, drizzled with good olive
oil and cooked right over the charcoal.”
Even Percy Street Barbecue has options you probably have
never considered.

“You can grill anything — even lettuce,” O’Shea said. “What
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