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www.symphonysq.com and Jewish holiday cooking, and after university I
worked on a magazine and then got a job working
for [cookbook author] Joan Nathan,” Alpern said. “I
did recipe testing for her, and she got me a job in a
pastry kitchen and on a food truck. Then I crossed
paths with Jeffrey and we both were super on fire
about Jewish foods.”
After hitting it off, Yoskowitz and Alpern would
go on to launch The Gefilteria.
Raised in New Jersey by parents who loved Ash-
kenazi culture, Yoskowitz attended a Jewish day
school and became well-versed in traditional Jewish
cuisine from a young age.
“My dad took me to the Jewish delis and kinish-
eries and the Jewish food institutions of New York
when I was a child,” he said. “I was always interested
in food and even studied the kosher food industry
for my senior thesis [at Brown University]. When
I graduated I became a farm fellow and moved to
Adamah Farm, a Jewish organic farm.”
At Adamah, Yoskowitz became a pickle appren-
tice, falling in love with the art of lacto-fermen-
tation — a style of pickling and preserving that
does not involve vinegar and is the classic style of
making the Jewish deli pickle.
Pickling helped Yoskowitz discovered the wis-
“Growing up eating a pastrami
sandwich with a full sour pickle
next to it, wow, it’s the best way of
helping digest that fatty pastrami
sandwich.” Philadelphia
Corporation for
Aging (PCA)
26 THE GUIDE 2017/2018
JEFFREY YOSKOWITZ
dom that is inherent in Jewish cooking.
“Not only does the pickle have a lot of flavor, the
method of making it relies on a natural occurring
bacteria — acidophilus, what’s in yogurt — which
is very good for your digestion and is probiotic,” he
said. “Growing up eating a pastrami sandwich with
a full sour pickle next to it, wow, it’s the best way of
helping digest that fatty pastrami sandwich. That’s
when I learned this tradition has a built in wisdom
to it. This inspired me.”
“It was an awakening, where food comes from,
the experience creating it,” Yoskowitz added. “Then
I got into writing.”
Now an entrepreneur, consultant, cook and
public speaker, Yoskowitz’s writings have been
published in The New York Times, The Atlantic and
Gastronomica. Reviving ‘lost gems’
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Jewish food writer and cookbook author Leah
Koenig, whose latest book is 2015’s Modern Jewish
Cooking, praised The Gefilte Manifesto for digging
“deep into our Ashkenazi ancestors’ recipe boxes.”
“It pulls out time-tested favorites and lost gems,
and finds ways to make them taste at once fresh and
innovative, and utterly authentic,” Koenig said.
Indeed, whether it is old country sour cream,
schmaltz and gribenes, summer beet borscht, beef
kreplach, sweet lokshen kugel with plums, spiced
herring in oil, smoked whitefish gefilte terrine,
chopped liver pate, blintzes, or wine-braised bris-
ket with butternut squash, The Gefilte Manifesto
screams out with its authors’ passion to contempo-
rize classic Jewish cuisine.
“Gefilte is not just about your bubbe,” they write.
“It is not about kitsch or a foodie revolution. Gefilte
is about reclaiming our time-honored foods and
caring how they taste and how they’re sourced. It is
about serving a dish with pride, not simply out of
deference to hollow convention. It is about taking
food traditions seriously and reclaiming the glory
of Ashkenazi food — what it has been and what it
can be.”
King of Prussia
620 West Valley Forge Road
King of Prussia, PA 19406
610.337.1214 Warminster Twp.
779 W. County Line Road
Hatboro, PA 19040
215.957.5182 Yardley
493 Stony Hill Road
Yardley, PA 19067
215.321.6166 Waverly
W averly Heights offers
exceptional services and amenities ...
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Woodcrest Country
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waverlyheightsltd.org THE GUIDE 2017/2018
27