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Ukrainian Jewish Food:
Remember the
Past Through
Recipes LINDA MOREL | SPECIAL TO THE JE
W hen Russia’s barbaric
aggression against
Ukraine began, Jewish
aid organizations estimated that
200,000 Ukrainian Jews were inte-
grated into the life of that country,
making the Jewish community there
the third-largest in Europe and the
fi ft h-largest in the world.

Since March, Jews have fl ed in droves,
mostly to Israel. Feeling helpless, my
husband and I sent money through
the Jewish Federation. At Passover, we
placed a beetroot on our seder plate in
solidarity with the people of Ukraine.

Borscht, the gorgeous garnet-col-
ored soup, gets its radiant hue from
beets. Popular throughout Eastern
Europe, borscht was not only invented
in Ukraine but is its most famous food.

However, original recipes were made
from a bitter white root called borsh.

Poverty prompted this unpleasant soup
to become widespread.

But during the Renaissance, people
began preparing this recipe from much
22 MAY 12, 2022 | JEWISHEXPONENT.COM
sweeter beets, retaining the original name.

Eventually, Ukrainians of means added
beef, beans and vegetables to the recipe.

Jews created two diff erent kinds of
borscht: a thick, meat-based borscht
and a thinner vegetarian version to
which they added smetana, a sour
cream-like cheese. When Jews immi-
grated to America, vegetable borscht
was overshadowed by meat borscht.

Many celebrated Jewish foods have
their roots in Ukraine. Babka, the cake
baked in loaf pans in America, is baked
in high round pans in Ukraine. In both
Ukrainian and Yiddish, baba means
grandmother; babka means little
grandmother. Some say this tall cake
resembles grandma’s long skirt.

Many Ukrainian Jewish recipes are
well known to Ashkenazi Jews, par-
ticularly challah and stuff ed cabbage.

Made with nutty-fl avored buckwheat,
kasha varnishkes evolved into bow-
tie pasta fl avored with caramelized
onions. Oft en prepared with butter
and served with smetana, potato latkes
are beloved in Ukraine. Jews created an
oil-based version to eat with meat. Th is
popular dish is served at Chanukah
and throughout the year.

But there are some Ukrainian Jewish
foods unfamiliar to most Americans.

Carrot and zucchini muffi ns are pop-
ular at Passover but are eaten all year,
kotlety are meat patties stuff ed with
mushrooms and syrniki, cheese pan-
cakes, are a treasured treat.

Since the crisis in Ukraine began, I
have cooked these dishes as a tribute
to Ukrainian Jews forced from their
homeland by a cruel tyrant — a theme
that has replayed throughout Jewish
history. While it is unclear if Jews have
a future in Ukraine, I’m trying to keep
the memory of Jewish life there alive
through food.

Ukrainian Borscht American-
Style | Meat
Yield: 3 quarts
When you chop beets, your hands
turn red. I, therefore, rely on bot-
tled borscht, enhancing it so even a
Ukrainian grandmother would think
it’s homemade. The only way she’d
suspect the truth is that my hands
are not stained.

2 (32-ounce) bottles of borscht
(made from beets, not concentrate)
3 (14-ounce) cans beef stock
12 small pieces marrow bones
3 pounds short ribs for fl anken,
sliced lengthwise between the
bones 2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled
and diced
5 carrots, peeled and sliced into
circles 2 medium onions, diced
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
16 peppercorns
⅔ cup red wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
Kosher salt to taste
Three days before serving, place
all the ingredients in a large stockpot.

Simmer covered, stirring occasionally,
for one hour, or until the meat and
potatoes soften. Check the season-
ings. If it’s too sweet, add a bit more
vinegar. If it’s too tart, add a little sugar.

Refrigerate and skim the fat from
the top. Remove the bay leaves,
bones and peppercorns. Serve hot.