L ifestyles /C ulture
Jewish Heritage Influenced David Gilberg
F O OD
KERI WHITE | JE FOOD COLUMNIST
DAVID GILBERG, chef of
the new and buzzing Cry Baby
– a Place for Pasta & Wine,
has an impressive restaurant
resume, having worked in
renowned Philly kitchens such
as Matyson, Novelty, Lowe and
opening Koo Zee Doo with his
wife Carla Goncalvez.

Growing up in a traditional
Jewish family in Rochester,
N.Y., Gilberg always loved food
and cooking.

“Shabbos dinner
was a big deal in my house. Every
Friday, my mom would roast a
chicken, we would have challah,
Manischewitz,” he said. “It was
the ritual that was really special,
sitting around the table, talking,
so food became important to me.”
He worked in restaurants as
a teenager, and upon graduat-
ing high school, left Rochester
to attend Haverford College.

“I came to the Philly area and
never left. I majored in sociol-
ogy at Haverford, which is pretty
good training for the restaurant
business,” he said. “Throughout
college, I worked in restaurants.

During my last two years, I
moved into the city for a job as a
sous chef and commuted back to
Haverford for classes.”
Having spent time in
the kitchens of many local
restaurants — even running
Morgan’s Pier for a summer,
which he describes as “crazy”
— Gilberg tried a stint on the
corporate side of the busi-
ness. He ran purchasing and
managed several locations in
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Avram Hornick’s restaurant
collection. But in the end, he
missed the stove.

Two summers ago, Gilberg
and Goncalvez were approached
the kitchen, special events, hos-
pitality and the bar. The follow-
ing year, they were rehired and
Photo courtesy
asked to add a pub, a deli, an
Drew Callaghan
ice cream and candy shop and a
to run The Wellesley Hotel, general store.

Realizing they needed help,
a small historic inn in the
Thousand Islands in upstate they placed an ad on Craigslist;
New York. They went for the
season and loved it. They ran
See Food, Page 20
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