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Goodbye, Kosherfest: A Trade Show
Swap Reveals a Changing Industry
Jackie Hajdenberg | JTA.org
18 JUNE 8, 2023 | JEWISH EXPONENT
Julia Gergely via JTA.org
A fter more than three decades,
an annual trade show of kosher
foods that saw the evolution of
the cuisine in America grow from gefilte
fish and pastrami to “facon,” gluten-free
cookies and CBD gum is no more.

“Exhibitors feel Kosherfest has run its
course,” the company that organized
the two-day event, Diversified Business
Communications, announced on May 31.

The company’s statement attributed
the decision to shifts in the supermarket
industry and in how stores display and
purchase kosher products. Buyers for
Visitors check out a booth at Kosherfest.

supermarkets, it said, are increasingly
likely to buy kosher products at general
trade shows rather than events specific to kosher food.

with wine tastings, blind taste tests and cooking demonstrations taking place along-
“As this buyer is responsible for sourcing and purchasing a wide array of products, side displays of new products.

they are more likely to attend food events displaying items not just exclusive to
“You (and your appetite) are invited to a massive celebration of all things kosher
kosher,” the company said. “A certified kosher only food show such as Kosherfest is with hundreds of food brands, cookbook authors, influencers, and experts, all under
too niche for their attendance.”
one roof,” announced a press release for the event distributed last month.

The decision to cancel Kosherfest — which has included more than 325 exhibitors
Among the companies highlighted on Kosher-Palooza’s website is KosherCatch, a
displaying their products and has drawn as many as 6,000 attendees each fall — New England-based fresh fish company. Its founder, Jeffrey Ingber, said he had been
comes as kosher food has gone mainstream. As of 2018, according to the Boston a longtime Kosherfest attendee but thought the show had waned recently.

Globe, some 40% of packaged food and drink sold in the United States was certified
“Over the past 10 years there was nothing new to see, which is a surprise because
kosher. Last year, Rabbi Eli Lando, the executive manager of OK Kosher, a certification there are emerging products and new products and creative products coming out
agency, said Jews make up just 20% of kosher products’ consumer base, according every year by manufacturers,” he said.

to the publication Food Dive.

Apfelbaum said she had seen the same thing. “Definitely Kosherfest in the last
At the same time, supermarkets and other pillars of the kosher marketplace have couple of years has been very disappointing for anyone that’s in the industry,” she
been joined by social media influencers in promoting new food products to Jews said. “I just found there weren’t that many vendors anymore. It really had slowed down.”
who keep kosher. That shift was accelerated during the pandemic when Kosherfest
The demise coincided with a rapid explosion of accessible kosher products — in
was suspended for a year before returning to muted crowds in 2021. Recently, it some ways making the show a victim of the success of its field.

showed signs of strain. Last year, the fair was still recruiting vendors just days before
“This year we’re celebrating the centennial of American kosher certification, and
its opening. Vendors who had reserved booths for this year will have their payments efforts by certifiers during that century have left the kosher industry in an excellent
refunded, the company said.

position,” said David Zvi Kalman, a scholar at the Shalom Hartman Institute of North
Some longstanding Kosherfest attendees thought the show had shifted to cater America who studies trends in Jewish life.

too much to influencers, while some influencers said the show never felt totally
“The fact that there are kosher products up and down the supply chain means that
accessible to them.

manufacturers can easily source kosher ingredients, and ingredient manufacturers
“The food industry has evolved and social media influencers definitely have a have an incentive to certify to stay competitive,” Kalman added. “While effective
voice and a presence and they get products in front of consumers,” said Chanie marketing has been important to the industry’s growth — it saved the [Orthodox
Apfelbaum, a kosher cookbook author and social media personality under the Union] from a period of stagnation in the 1950s — there are now strong network
moniker “Busy in Brooklyn.” “So, it’s definitely something that was necessary that effects that encourage companies to certify even without the help of events like
they weren’t really ready to bring to the table.”
Kosherfest.” Apfelbaum, who said she was introduced to Korean cuisine after meeting a chef at
With kosher products readily available in many places, observers said kosher-keep-
Kosherfest, will host a cooking competition at Kosher-Palooza, a new event that will ing consumers are increasingly looking for unique or boundary-pushing food experi-
take place later this month at the same New Jersey convention center that previously ences — a niche promoted by Fleishigs Magazine, a lead sponsor of Kosher-Palooza.

hosted Kosherfest.

“Kosher consumers are demanding fresh, new products that we want to see on the
Kosher-Palooza is geared toward individual consumers, according to its website, market and that’s what we want,” Apfelbaum said. “That’s what we’re looking for.” ■



food & dining
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Vegetarian Revolution
Linda Morel
W hether people choose to be
vegetarians for humane reasons,
health concerns or to protect the environ-
ment, in the past they shared one thing
— few people put much thought into
vegetarian cuisine.

For the most part, the meat-eating
world considered it more of a nuisance
than a cuisine.

Usually lacking protein, food for vegetar-
ians traditionally has been a hodgepodge
of side dishes circulating around a center-
piece of meat or fish. Chefs and home
cooks alike rarely prepared entrées for
their plant-loving guests.

But this has changed in recent years,
both at restaurants and in homes. The
popularity of Meatless Mondays, the cost
of animal products and the endorsement
of the Mediterranean diet by nutrition
experts have attracted an increasing
number of people to vegetarian eating
on a part- or full-time basis.

Now that the pendulum is swinging,
chefs and recipe developers at food
magazines are crafting vegetarian
dishes bursting with flavor and protein.

Vegetarians can find plant-based entrées
proudly presented on menus, even at
the finest restaurants.

Nowhere has this shift been more
evident than at the luncheon served
at Buckingham Palace to celebrate the
coronation of King Charles III on May 6.

While many people expected a menu of
old English standards, such as roast beef
and Yorkshire pudding, the main course
was a meat-free quiche. The reason:
sensitivity to environmental concerns.

If a vegetarian entrée is fit for a king
on coronation day, it’s time to give the
plant-based diet the respect it deserves.

M.studio/ Adobestock
Chickpeas in Coconut Sauce |
Pareve Serves 3-4
⅓ cup slivered almonds
2 (15.5-ounce) cans of chickpeas
1½ inches of ginger root
1 onion
3-4 garlic cloves
4 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
Kosher salt to taste, start with a little
and add later, if needed
1 heaping tablespoon curry powder
1 tablespoon basil, chopped
1½ cups jasmine rice, uncooked
½ cup vegetable broth
1 (13.5-ounce) coconut milk
(not low-fat)
⅛ cup low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 (10-ounce) box of baby spinach
Preheat an oven or toaster oven to
350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with
aluminum foil. Spread the almonds on
the foil and bake them for 1-2 minutes.

Drain the chickpeas in a colander.

Rinse them under cold water. Pick out
any loose skins and discard them. Peel
the ginger root. Dice it and then chop
it finely. Peel and chop the onion and
garlic. Reserve these ingredients.

Heat the oil on a low flame in a large
pot. Add the onion and stir. Sprinkle
in the salt, curry powder and basil and
stir until the onion is coated. Sauté for
2-3 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic
and stir until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes.

Remove it from the flame temporarily.

Follow the directions on the package
of rice and start to cook it in another pot.

Pour the vegetable broth, coconut
milk, soy sauce and honey into the curry
pot. Raise the flame to medium. Add the
chickpeas and stir to combine. When the
sauce reaches a fast simmer, reduce the
flame to low.

Stir occasionally until the sauce thick-
ens, about 20 minutes. Add the lime
juice and spinach in clumps. Remove the
pot from the flame.

Stir quickly until the spinach wilts. Place
the rice in a large bowl and spoon the
curry and sauce mixture over it. Sprinkle
the almonds on top. Serve immediately.

Penne with Asparagus | Dairy
Serves 4-6
2 large bunches of thin speared
asparagus (about 2½ pounds)
1 onion
4 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus a
couple of drops
Kosher salt to taste
1 pound penne
⅔ cup dry white wine, such as
pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese at
room temperature
1½ cups ricotta cheese at room
temperature Cut off the tough ends from each
asparagus spear and discard them. Slice
the rest of each spear on a diagonal into
½-inch pieces. Keep the tips intact; don’t
cut them in half. Reserve.

Chop the onion and garlic finely. In a
medium saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons of
olive oil on a medium flame until warm. Add
the onion and garlic. Sprinkle it with salt
and stir for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant. Pour
in the wine and stir. Simmer it for a couple
of minutes, then remove it from the flame.

Following the directions on the penne
box, bring the water to a boil. Add a few
drops of olive oil to the water. Carefully
slide the pasta into the boiling water and
stir. Place the lid loosely on the pot. If the
water boils too quickly, lower the flame.

While the pasta is boiling, cook the
onion and garlic saucepan over a
medium-low flame. Add the asparagus
and stir every couple of minutes. When
the asparagus is softened on the outside
but still firm on the inside, remove the
saucepan from the flame. The asparagus
should still be bright green.

Drain the penne in a colander. Pour the
penne into a pasta bowl. Sprinkle on the
Parmesan and toss it vigorously to coat.

Spoon the asparagus and sauce over
the penne. Arrange dollops of ricotta
over the pasta and serve it immediately.

Tofu, Tomatoes and Vegetables
with Quinoa | Pareve
Serves 6
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Kosher salt to taste
1 bunch carrots, peeled and sliced
thin into disks
½ pound mushrooms, sliced
Uncooked quinoa for 6 servings
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
½ lb. string beans, ends trimmed
and cut into 1-inch lengths
1 package of tofu, drained and
cut into ½-inch cubes
If you prep all the ingredients before
starting to cook, this recipe goes much
faster and is easier to make.

Heat the olive oil on a medium-low
flame in a large pot. Add the onion,
garlic and salt. Stir to combine. Sauté
until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes. Add
the carrots and mushrooms and stir
again. Cover the pot and braise for 5-8
minutes, stirring occasionally.

Prepare the quinoa according to the
package directions.

Add the tomatoes (liquid and all), string
beans and tofu to the large pot. Stir to
combine. Cover the pot and simmer for
10-15 minutes.

Move the cooked quinoa to a pasta
bowl or large serving bowl. Using a ladle,
spoon the contents of the large pot over
the quinoa and serve immediately. ■
Linda Morel is a freelance food writer.

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