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I SASHA ROGELBERG | STAFF WRITER
t doesn’t take a Torah scholar to know
that God promised the Israelites
a land overfl owing with milk and
honey, not a land overfl owing with oat
milk, or soy milk, or cashew, rice, hemp
or pea milk.

But as Jews celebrate Shavuot — com-
memorating Moses and the Israelites
receiving the Torah — by eating cheese-
cake, cheese blintzes and cheese kugel,
many experience a gastrointestinal wrath
that feels like punishment from God.

While an estimated 60-80% of
Ashkenazi Jews suff er from lactose
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Photos: iStock, AdobeStock
6 JUNE 2, 2022 | JEWISHEXPONENT.COM
intolerance, according
to an American Family
Vegan chef Rachel Klein uses tofu and cashews
Physician study, Jews
to make matzah balls that are fl oaters, not sinkers,
began the tradition of
despite their plant-based ingredients.

indulging in dairy as a
nod to the promise of a
land of milk and honey, but it also serves nomadic cultures relied on other methods,
a practical purpose, Ko Kosher Service and they were relying more on more fer-
Rabbi Amiel Novoseller said. To fulfi ll mented dairy products, and they did not
the Shavuot ritual of studying Torah, develop their daily tolerance.”
Jews should prepare with a dairy meal, a
Th e stereotype of the wandering Jew
lighter alternative to its meat counterpart. may hold weight to the reason so many
“God forbid we should be sleepy are lactose intolerant, Goldberg said. Jews
when we’re going to receive the Torah!” have relied on fermented dairy products
Novoseller said. “[Rabbis] fi gure, you still for centuries, Yoskowitz added, as seen
gotta eat. Eat something dairy, eat vege- in the Ashkenazi proclivity toward sour
table protein. Th is way, we’ll stay alert for cream in borscht, for example.

the acceptance of the Torah.”
For Jews who relied on fermented dairy
Cookbook author and food writer to make milk products more digest-
Jeff rey Yoskowitz suggests that consum- ible, assimilation, which “stamped out”
ing dairy is a matter of anthropology just many cooking traditions, provided fewer
as much as tradition.

opportunities for Jewish cooks to make
“When it comes to food and food tra- food from their home countries that best
ditions, to me, it always comes down to suited their sensitive digestion, he said.

seasonal abundance,” Yoskowitz said. All
But looking to the past could also
of these ritual agricultural festivals fall for off er solutions on how to navigate a lac-
very specifi c reasons or at certain times.” tose-heavy holiday celebration.

Shavuot falls 49 days aft er Passover, a
Th ese days, it’s easy for people to make
time in the spring when goats are birth- dairy products, Yoskowitz argued. One
ing their kids, mirrored on the Passover can make creme fraiche or sour cream
seder plate with the lamb shank rep- by inoculating cream with cultured but-
resenting the sacrifi ce of the animal. termilk or yogurt.

Nearly two months later, goats are start-
“It’s a really good opportunity for peo-
ing to wean their kids off their milk, ple to learn how to make some of these
leaving a surplus of dairy to the farmers. things from scratch,” Yoskowitz said.

Milk consumption in Jewish antiq-
But in true Jewish fashion, some cooks
uity, on the surface, contradicts Jewish are looking toward modern food technolo-
aversion to lactose today. But Einstein gies, relying on the ample plant-based dairy
Healthcare Network gastroenterologist alternatives to recreate nostalgic dishes.

Dr. Michael Goldberg qualifi es the idea.

Rachel Klein, creator and chef of
Lactose intolerance is caused by the Philadelphia’s Miss Rachel’s Pantry, uses
body’s buildup of lactose, the sugar in milk, cashews and tofu to make fl uff y matzah
in the colon, Goldberg said. Jews, among balls that, when she fi rst fed them to her
most other demographics, have a defi - grandmother, made her tear up.

ciency in lactase, the enzyme that breaks
Recreating a family dish for a Jewish
down this sugar and, over time, excess holiday is more than just about comfort.

lactose can cause digestive unpleasantries. For Klein, the vegan dishes she creates
“Populations that were staying rooted retain the labor-intensive techniques.

in one place long enough to cultivate and
“It makes me happy that I can continue
raise livestock, they more easily developed a tradition for my family,” Klein said. JE
dairy tolerance because they were using
the dairy all the time,” he said. “Th e more srogelberg@midatlanticmedia.com
Courtesy of Rachel Klein
Lactose Intolerants
Make Shavuot Ritual
Easier to Stomach