Living
(Zero) Proof
Restaurants Pivot Toward
Alcohol-Free Drinks
G one are the days of ordering a virgin Jack and
Coke or mimosa at a summer pool party or
brunch for those who don’t imbibe alcohol, leav-
ing them with a simple soda or glass of orange juice in a
sea of fancy cocktails.

Slowly but surely, the tides are turning for sober bar and
restaurant goers, with more and more restaurants off ering
zero-proof counterparts to their extensive menu of spir-
it-heavy drinks.

Jewish-owned and kosher restaurants in Philadelphia
are no exception, and chefs, restaurant owners and bar-
tenders note the emergence of these drinks as a sign of
changing times for restaurants.

“Th ere’s a lot of diff erent social reasons why this is
becoming a little bit more popular,” said Steven McAllister,
beverage director of CookNSolo, Steve Cook and Michael
Solomonov’s restaurant group.

McAllister guesses that personal health is the primary
reason many are turning to nonalcoholic drinks.

“A lot of people realize that alcohol doesn’t necessarily
agree with them,” he said.

For others who are traveling or jet-lagged, mocktails can
provide a distinguished restaurant experience that doesn’t
take as much of a physical toll.

In the past fi ve to seven years, monthly challenges like
Dry January and NAvember (non-alcohol November) have
created low-risk, easy entry points for those dipping their
toe into an alcohol-free lifestyle.

From a consumer perspective, no-alcohol or low-
alcohol-by-volume drinks allow simply for more drinking.

“It’s really important to off er lower ABV cocktails
for people who want to enjoy more drinks and fl avors
without the hangover or getting smashed or whatever,”
kosher restaurant Charlie was a sinner. owner Nicole
Marquis said.

Th oughtful zero-proof drinks also help to maintain the
atmosphere restaurants work hard to create.

“I love going to a really nice bar or really nice lounge
and just enjoying that experience, but I don’t want to drink
when I’m there, necessarily,” Marquis said. “So I want peo-
ple who don’t drink as well to feel like they can still enjoy
a really sexy vibe.”
But the emergence of mocktails serves just as much a
purpose for the back of house, for both the restaurant and
chefs behind the scenes.

Many chefs have come forward with their experiences
struggling with substance abuse, said Ginevra Rieff , the
Jewish bartender at Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby’s Vedge
in Center City.

“A lot of restaurant industry people have always had bat-
tles with it,” she said. “Th is young generation, treating the
industry diff erently, really values diff erent things.”
Following a generation of chefs whose experience in
the kitchen was defi ned by verbal abuse, long hours and
unhealthy lifestyles, younger chefs are looking to maintain
a better balance between their work and family and look
aft er their bodies, tired aft er a 12-hour shift .

“Th e hospitality industry is hitting its stride in becoming
a lot more professional,” McAllister said. “We can get bene-
fi ts; you can make a livable wage, whether you’re in front of
Courtesy of Charlie was a sinner.

SASHA ROGELBERG | STAFF WRITER
Charlie was a
sinner.’s spicy
pineapple zero-
proof cocktail
CookNSolo restaurant Laser Wolf’s
cocktail lineup
Photo by Michael Persico
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