food & dining
Holy Mole!
I recently traveled to Mexico City. The food scene
there is tremendous, the markets are a feast for
the senses and I learned quite a bit about the local
culinary traditions.

Mole, often called the “national dish of Mexico,”
invokes significant passion. I was told repeatedly by
various people, from chefs to food stand merchants
to Uber drivers, that their mama’s or abuela’s mole
was the best in the world, and there is no arguing the
point. Obviously, I did not argue the point.

I tried mole in various forms — an Oaxacan version
over cheese enchiladas at the renowned tradi-
tional restaurant Azul; a white version topped with
fermented carrots at Rosetta, a restaurant honored
with “the best female chef in Latin America”; and a
bunch of different blends spooned out of bins for
tastes at a market from a stand that offered about 40
different types of mole.

The history of mole is disputed — some claim it
was invented by accident when a bunch of spices
spilled together. Others suggest that Montezuma
served it to Cortes, the conquistador who the natives
mistook for a god. Others claim it was created in a
panic, pulling a random assortment of ingredients
together to host a visiting archbishop.

Regardless of its origin, the dish is beloved
throughout Mexico, and there are many different
types — all include an assortment of dried, roasted,
ground chilis, and then the deviation occurs. Some
moles can require up to 100 ingredients — they
might add aromatic spices such as cinnamon, cloves
and allspice or nuts, seeds and fruits. The spices are
then mixed with water or broth, heated and used as
a sauce or, in some cases, as a base for stew.

Of course, I brought a large bag of my favorite
blend home, but for those of you who wish to make
your own, I have a simpler version. I also offer a
vegetable mole stew and a cocktail or mocktail that
makes a refreshing aperitif.

Mole Spice Blend
Makes about ⅔ cup
In addition to providing the base for mole sauce,
this can be used as a rub for chicken or meat or
mixed with oil and citrus for a marinade. The degree
of spiciness can be shifted for personal preference,
using less chili, more cocoa, etc.

2 tablespoons ancho chili powder
2 tablespoons chipotle chili powder
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
32 JUNE 1, 2023 | JEWISH EXPONENT
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon cloves
2 teaspoons white or brown sugar
1 tablespoon salt
Mix all the ingredients well with a fork.

Store it, tightly sealed, in a spice cabinet.

Mole Sauce
Spice blend
Water or broth
For traditional mole sauce, mix 1 part
of the spice blend with 4 parts water and
heat it in a small saucepan over medium.

Bring it to a boil, lower the heat, stirring
constantly, and cook it for about 2 minutes.

If it’s too thick, add more water or broth.

(It should be the consistency of a very
smooth marinara sauce or slightly thinner
than barbecue sauce.)
Remove it from the heat and use it as
desired — as a sauce for chicken or meat, over enchi-
ladas, as a base for soup or stew, or as a topping for
quesadillas, tacos or any Mexican dish.

Vegetable Mole Stew
Serves 4
This stew has a hardiness that can provide rib-stick-
ing warmth, but it is also vegetarian, so it is light
enough to serve year-round. Use whatever veggies
you have on hand and serve it over rice.

1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil
⅓ cup mole spice blend
6 cups chopped vegetables (potatoes, yams, bell
peppers, carrots, beans, etc.)
2-3 cups water or broth, or more as needed
1 cup crushed tomatoes or tomato puree
1 lime
Cooked white rice for serving
Chopped fresh cilantro and/or scallions for garnish
Heat the oil and add the spice blend in a large soup
pot. Let the spices toast for a few minutes and add the
vegetables. Stir to coat. Add water or broth, mix well
and bring it to a boil. Add the crushed tomatoes. Stir to
blend, add the juice of the lime and throw the 2 halves
of the lime into the stew. There should be enough
liquid to just cover the veggies; if not, add more.

Stir, cover and simmer the stew for about 40
minutes until all the vegetables are soft and cooked
through. Check occasionally to ensure there’s suffi-
cient liquid; add more if needed.

Serve the stew over rice topped with cilantro and
scallions. Fruit Mocktail or Cocktail
Serves 1-2
I took a cooking class from a chef, and she made
this drink with passionfruit. This is difficult to come by
here in the Northeast, so I asked her for advice on
a workaround. She suggested cantaloupe, oranges
and limes. I used the whole fruits, which yielded a
rather thick drink, but if you prefer a thinner texture,
you can strain it.

1 orange, peeled and pitted
1 cup chopped cantaloupe or other sweet,
ripe melon
Juice of ½ lime
5-6 mint leaves (save 1 for each serving as garnish)
+/- 1 cup water
Tequila or mezcal if desired
Place all the ingredients in a blender and puree
until smooth. Pour it over ice and garnish it with a
mint leaf. If you’re spiking the drink, use 1 part of
tequila for 2 or 3 parts of juice. ■
Keri White is a Philadelphia-based freelance food
writer. Photos by Keri White
Keri White