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Sebadas sandwich a cheese fi lling between thin, fried dough rounds. They are
then drizzled in honey.

Courtesy of Getty Images
Th ough Eastern and Central Europe may be the birthplace of
what we recognize today as a jelly doughnut, fried dough enjoys
popularity around the world and has deep roots in Sephardic
traditions. Evidence of this is in the popularity of sufganiyot in Israel
— 45% of the population is Mizrahi or Sephardi according to
Israel’s Central Bureau of Statistics — where variations of the
fi lled doughnut are much more common in the U.S. Th is is also
due to the abundance of potatoes in the U.S. that inspire another
Chanukah dish, taking the spotlight away from sufganiyot.

“We’re really more of a latke country than a sufganiyah
country,” Green said.

Sufganiyot gained renown in Israel in the 1920s, when trade
union Histadrut advocated for the production of the diffi cult-
to-make sufganiyot over rudimentary latkes, to provide enough
work for their laborers.

In Israel, sufganiyot are fi lled with milk caramel dulce de
leche and chocolate or vanilla pastry cream. Halva and coconut
fl akes decorate the tops of the doughnuts, Green remembered,
taking inspiration from across the region.

In Northern Africa, Moroccan Jews favor s’fi nj — a light,
spongy ring of dough — on Chanukah; Tunisian Jews eat yo-yos,
cakier fried rings soaked in orange blossom syrup and topped
with crunchy pistachios bits.

Fritters are common in Jewish cuisine in Italy, too, with each
pocket of the country having a variation on the doughnut.

In the Tuscan town of Pitigliano, known before World War II as
“Little Jerusalem” because of its robust Jewish population, frittelle
di Hanukkah were a common diamond-shaped fritter, dough
fl ecked with raisins, chopped fi gs or anise seeds, Green said.

Green also has a recipe for sebadas, Sardinian pastries stuff ed
Sufganiyot in the U.S. are most commonly fi lled with sweet raspberry or
strawberry jelly and sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Courtesy of Getty Images
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WINTER HOLIDAY MAGAZINE
NOVEMBER 25, 2021
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